TWD: Madeleines

For such a small, delicate cookies, madeleines sure have a lot of controversy around them.

madeleine12

The question for many cooks is: what recipe were Proust’s madeleines from? I’d honestly never heard of the French author’s passage from In Search of Lost Time, which is apparently how the shell-shaped French cookies got their notoriety. But read anything about madeleines, and it’ll likely mention Marcel Proust and how the cookie’s crumbs in a cup of tea bring up involuntary memories.

At first, I didn’t think any of that related to why I was looking forward to making the French cookies with my mom for this week’s Tuesdays with Dorie project. No, madeleines were always one of the cookies that my grandfather made for our annual Christmas cookie exchange. Standing apart by their shell shape, the cookies were often half-dipped in a chocolate glaze. We’ve always wanted to get the special pan to make madeleines, but never had a real reason to, until it was time for this Baking with Julia recipe.

madeleine08

But from what we remembered of my grandpa’s cookies, these weren’t them. Theses were too light and fluffy, like little sponge cakes. Delicious and airy, these cookies were wonderful on the Saturday afternoon before Easter. But his were denser, more like shortbread, from what I can recall. So over the next few days, I tested out two other recipes from Julia Child: from her cookbook, The Way to Cook, and also from her original TV series, The French Chef (season 9, episode 7). All three recipes were quite different, and all tasty. The one featured below is made of an egg-yolk genoise. The oldest recipe used whole eggs, while The Way to Cook’s instructions called for a doughier cookie that turned out crisp.

I’d made this into my own Proust-esque cookie search, trying to determine which recipe coupled the right memories. I’m not sure which ones were my favorite, especially since the second two batches included lemon zest, which brightened up the cookies tremendously. But maybe there’s not a “right” cookie (for Proust or from our cookie exchange). Maybe the cookies are meant to just be enjoyed in the here and now, simple and delicious.

madeleine01

madeleine03

Simple ingredients: butter, flour, eggs, sugar, vanilla.

madeleine05

Start off by combining eggs and sugar.

madeleine06

Beat until airy, pale and tripled in volume. Gently fold in flour.

madeleine07

Scoop or pipe into the buttered and floured madeleine pan. This recipe doesn’t call for resting time or cooling the pan.

madeleine09

Powdered sugar hides any mistakes.

I’m sure you could add citrus zest to these madeleines from baker Flo Braker’s ladyfinger genoise, or other flavorings as well. (Here’s the PBS video.) Simple to mix together, they yielded shells with the telltale little humps. Even though we overcooked them a smidgen, they didn’t taste overdone. I’d recommend keeping a close eye on the pans and as soon as the edges of the cookies turn a golden brown, pop them out of the oven. Dusted with powdered sugar, you can’t even really tell. Or add a glaze (chocolate? lemon?) or a dollop of jam, and enjoy.

madeleine11

LADYFINGER GENOISE
From contributing baker Flo Braker, page 41
Makes enough batter for 6 dozen ladyfingers, 24 large madeleines, or 1 recipe petits fours

“The genoise is an inherently sturdy cake, but this genoise is even sturdier than the classic–it has a little more flour, giving it the body it needs to be piped into ladyfingers that will retain their shape, and additional egg yolks for moisture and even more structure. No matter that the proportions are different, the technique for making the batter is the same as that for Perfect Genoise.”

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 1 14 sifted cake flour
  • 23 cup sugar
  • 18 teaspoon salt
  • 2 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 4 large egg yolks, at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pour the melted butter into a 1-quart bowl; reserve.

Put the sifted flour, and 1 tablespoon of the sugar into the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer (or work with a hand-held mixer). Holding the whisk attachment from the mixer in your hand, beat the mixture just to combine. Add the remaining sugar and whisk by hand to mix. With the bowl and whisk attachment in place, whip the mixture on medium speed until it is airy, pale and tripled in volume, like softly whipped cream, 4 to 5 minutes. You’ll know that the eggs are properly whipped when you lift the whisk and mixture falls back into the bowl in a ribbon that rests on the surface for about 10 seconds. If the ribbon immediately sinks into the mixture, continue whipping for a few more minutes. Pour in the vanilla extract during the last moments of whipping.

Detach the bowl from the mixer. Sprinkle about one third of the flour mixture over the batter. Fold in the flour with a rubber spatula, stopping as soon as the flour is incorporated. Fold in the rest of the flour in 2 more additions.

Gently spoon about 1 cup of the batter into the bowl with the melted butter and fold in the butter with the rubber spatula. Fold this mixture into the batter in the mixer bowl. (This is the point at which the batter is at its most fragile, so fold gingerly.)

The batter is now ready to be used and, in fact, must be baked immediately.

MADELEINES
From contributing baker Flo Braker, page 334

  • 1 recipe Ladyfinger Genoise batter (page 41) 
  • 1 cup (approximately) confectioner’s sugar

Position the oven racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 400F. Butter and flour two madeleine plaques. (We used Baker’s Joy and it worked fine.)

Baking the cookies: Using a spoon or pastry bag without a tip, fill the molds with the batter. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the madeleines are puffed, spring back when prodded gently, and start to come away from the sides of the molds. Let the madeleines cool for a minute or two before turning them out onto a rack to cool. Dust with powdered sugar.

Storing: Both ladyfingers and madeleines are best the day they are made, although slightly stale madeleines are wonderful dipped in tea, a la Proust. You can keep the cookies in an airtight tin for a day or two or freeze them for up to the 10 days in a plastic container with waxed paper between the layers. Thaw, still packed, at room temperature.

About these ads
Tagged , , , , , ,

24 thoughts on “TWD: Madeleines

  1. [...] of days as a treat with coffee in the morning. This week’s hosts are Katie and Amy from Counter Dog so you can get the original recipe there. Here’s my version [...]

  2. [...] can find the recipe on pages 333-334 of Baking With Julia or on Katie and Amy’s blog, Counter Dog. Now I’m going to go freeze half of these cute little cakes…or maybe I’ll serve [...]

  3. [...] you’d like a really good vanilla genoise recipe, you can find it here. I advise you to make it as a cake, though, not as [...]

  4. Gorgeous Madeleines, ladies! Great post and photos….thanks for hosting!

  5. [...] recipe from Baking with Julia can be found at the blog Counter Dog. To see what other TWD bakers have done, please visit Tuesdays with [...]

  6. saucygander says:

    Proustian or not, yours look so pretty! Thanks for hosting!

  7. [...] bakers feel about these madeleines, check out the Tuesday with Dorie links, especially our hosts at Counter Dog, who made very lovely madeleines indeed. Don’t give up on madeleines on my account! [...]

  8. mike509 says:

    Thanks for choosing such a great recipe – very easy to make and delicious! Love all your prep photos – so professional!

  9. Jodi says:

    Thanks for hosting this week!
    Great post.

  10. Cakelaw says:

    Thanks for hosting this week. Your madeleines are gorgeous. I don’t have any memory associations with mads, as I had never heard of them until I started blogging

  11. cathysbruce says:

    Thanks for hosting! I have fond memories of my Grandma’s baking, especially her pies. We have the recipes, but they don’t taste as good as I remember them. I think memory is like that.

  12. Thank you for hosting! Your pictures are great! Blessings, Catherine

  13. [...] This week’s Tuesday with Dorie recipe was Madeleine’s. I’ve never had a Madeleine before but only know them as the spongy looking cookies in the shell shape. I’ve never made them before either so I’ve never had a need for one of the fancy trays either. Luckily, I learned you can bake Madeleines in mini-muffin tins and still get the same effect. For the recipe and host this week, visit Katie’s blog.  [...]

  14. [...] out our host Katie’s blog at Counter Dog for the recipe, photos and see how her madeleines turned out.  Here’s a look at mine and [...]

  15. [...] week’s hosts are: Katie and Amy Thisdell. You can find everyone’s links here: [...]

  16. Cher says:

    Beautifully done – thank you for hosting this week!

  17. Beth says:

    The only time I’ve eaten madeleines in my life was when I visited Proust’s hometown in France! Yours look lovely.

  18. Teresa says:

    Thanks for hosting! The shape of your madeleines is traditional, no matter if the taste is the same as Proust’s or not. I hope you figure out your grandfather’s version.

  19. Cathleen says:

    You obtained the little hump! Mine did not appear. Good luck in finding a recipe close to your grandfather’s version. I would have liked a more cookie texture rather than the spongy/rubbery texture mine had. Wonderful job hosting!

  20. teaandscones says:

    Thanks for hosting this week. Your mads are lovely.

  21. spike says:

    those look perfect!

  22. sbb jen says:

    Thanks for hosting!!! They look great! I’m sure you’ll find your grandfather’s recipe soon and I hope you end up posting it. I would love to try it!

  23. [...] Probably, there are lots of beautiful examples in the leave your link post at Tuesdays with Dorie, and at the host’s blog: counter dog [...]

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 121 other followers

%d bloggers like this: